Pruning prices vary more than customers expect, and almost all of the variation is which job is being priced rather than who is pricing it. Getting that settled before you collect quotes is worth more than any negotiation.

Start from the problem

The most useful thing you can do is describe what the tree stops you doing, rather than name an operation. Contractors then quote for what you need, which is frequently cheaper than what you asked for.

What you'd sayWhat you probably wantRelative cost
"Nothing grows under it"Crown thin, or a liftLow to moderate
"The patio's always dark"Crown liftLow
"The kitchen is gloomy"Crown thinModerate
"It drops dead bits"DeadwoodingLowest
"It's over the greenhouse"Targeted pruningLow
"It's over next door"Prune that side onlyLow
"It's just too big"Crown reductionHigher

Thinning: the operation people do not know to ask for

Worth its own section, because it is the answer to a great many complaints and hardly anybody requests it by name.

A crown thin removes a proportion of the interior growth — small branches, crossing limbs, congested sections — so more light filters through the same canopy. The tree stays exactly the same height and spread. From outside, it looks like the same tree; underneath, it is a different garden.

If the problem is that a tree has become dense rather than large, thinning solves it for considerably less than a reduction, without changing the tree's outline and without provoking the burst of regrowth that heavy reduction causes.

But thinning has a limit worth knowing

There is a temptation to thin heavily and get a lot of light at once. It does not work well and it is worth understanding why.

Removing too much interior growth leaves the branches bare along their length with foliage only at the tips — the "lion's tail". That looks wrong, and more importantly it concentrates all the weight at the ends of the limbs, which makes branch failure in wind more likely rather than less.

Sensible thinning is a modest percentage of the crown. If that is not enough light, the answer is a different operation — a lift, or a genuine reduction — not a heavier thin.

A properly thinned tree should not look thinned. It should look like the same tree with more light coming through it.

What sets the price of any pruning job

  • Which operation, as above — the biggest factor by far.
  • Height and spread, which set the crew and the climbing time.
  • Access for the chipper, and where a vehicle can stand.
  • What is beneath — clear ground versus roped sections.
  • Species. Dense hardwood is slower and heavier.
  • Waste volume. A thin generates more material than a lift, despite leaving the tree the same size.

Good pruning should be invisible

On a well-pruned tree you should not be able to see where the cuts were made. Each cut wants to be back to a growth point — a side branch, or the branch collar at the trunk — never flush to the trunk and never left as a stub in mid-air, because a stub cannot seal and becomes an entry point for decay.

The permission check

In Pershore's conservation area, work to a tree needs six weeks' written notice to Wychavon District Council, and a TPO tree needs written consent at any size. That applies to work on the tree rather than to how much you cut, so taking one limb off a greenhouse counts just as a full reduction does.

The size exemption in a conservation area covers stems under 75mm across, measured 1.5m up, rising to 100mm where the work is thinning to help other trees. That is a genuinely small stem. TPO trees have no size exemption at all.

Want a tree pruned properly?

Tell us what's actually bothering you about it and we'll tell you the cheapest work that fixes it.

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