Reducing a large overgrown hedge is quoted on how much is coming off, the species, the access and the volume of waste. It's closer to tree work than to trimming, and the material it produces surprises people every time.

We don't publish a fixed price list for hedge work, because the length is only one part of it — height, condition, access and how much material comes out all move the number considerably. What we can do is set out what to look at before you ring round.

Why it's a different job from trimming

  • Saws rather than trimmers, because the wood is thicker.
  • Several times the waste volume of an annual cut.
  • Working at height along the entire run.
  • Judged cutting — there's no existing line to follow, so every cut is a decision.
  • Protecting what's beneath, after years of the hedge growing over it.
  • Substantially more clearing up.

The species question comes first

Conifers won't reshoot from bare brown wood. On leylandii, cypress and most of their relations, the reduction can only go as far as the green growth reaches. Cut past that line and the hedge stays brown there permanently. This is the single most important thing to establish before agreeing a finished size — and it's why we'll sometimes say a hedge can't come back to where you want it.
HedgeHow it takes a hard reduction
Leylandii, cypressPoorly — green growth only
YewVery well; regrows from old wood
PrivetVery well; extremely forgiving
LaurelWell; responds strongly
Beech, hornbeamWell, better staged if severe
Hawthorn, blackthornWell
HollyReasonably, but slow work
Reducing the height of a large overgrown hedge in Worcester

Check the green limit before agreeing anything

It's measurable in advance rather than discovered afterwards. Push a hand into the hedge and look. On a conifer that's been maintained, green growth may extend a foot or more inward. On one left for years, it can be a couple of inches at the very surface — and that distance is the entire scope of what can be cut back.

Staging it over two seasons

On a badly overgrown hedge, taking everything off in one go can be more than the plant will tolerate and often produces a result nobody's happy with. Reducing the height one season and the sides the next gives it a full growing season to respond in between.

It costs more across two visits and produces a hedge rather than a casualty. On something that's stood twenty years, one extra season isn't a long wait.

What drives the cost

  • How much is coming off — the main driver.
  • The length of the run.
  • Current height, which decides the equipment.
  • Wood thickness at the cutting line.
  • Access along the run for platforms.
  • Waste volume, which is considerable.
  • What's beneath — borders, a fence, a neighbour's garden.

What it looks like afterwards

  • Brown on the cut faces, initially, on most species.
  • Deciduous hedges green up within a season.
  • Conifers may not, if the cut went past the green.
  • Thinner before it thickens.
  • The base often stays sparse if it's been shaded out for years.
  • We'll describe the likely finish at quotation — honestly, rather than reassuringly.

The part that makes it worth paying for

The restoration isn't really the point. Getting onto a maintainable cycle afterwards is — and it's the step most often skipped. A hedge restored beautifully and then left another four years is simply a hedge you'll restore again, at the same price, having gained nothing permanent.

Got a hedge that's got away from you?

Send a photo with something for scale. We'll tell you honestly how far it can come back.

More Hedge Maintenance Advice

View all hedge maintenance guides →