Unlike a tree, a hedge is a permanent commitment by design — it needs cutting every year for as long as it stands. So the question is really about whether that commitment is worth what the hedge gives you.

The ten-year comparison

Keep the hedgeRemove and fence
Up-front costLow (or a reduction)High
Annual costA cut every yearAlmost nothing
ScreeningFull heightLimited to about 2m
LifespanIndefinite if maintained15–20 years for a fence
WildlifeSubstantialNone
WindFilters itCreates turbulence
Space takenA foot or more of depthAlmost none
The row people forget is the second-to-last. A dense hedge filters wind and slows it. A solid fence does not — it creates turbulence on the leeward side, which is why exposed gardens with fences are frequently windier than they look like they should be.

When removal is clearly right

  • A conifer hedge with almost no green left. The one genuinely unrecoverable case — these do not regrow from bare wood.
  • A hedge so wide that even a full reduction would not return enough space in a small garden.
  • A hedge that is gappy or dying back throughout, rather than in one section.
  • A boundary being re-fenced anyway as part of wider work.
  • Where the annual commitment genuinely does not suit you — which is a legitimate reason on its own.

When keeping it is clearly right

  • Any broadleaf hedge, more or less regardless of how overgrown.
  • A conifer hedge with a decent depth of green still on it.
  • A hedge doing screening above two metres that a fence could not replace.
  • An exposed boundary where wind matters.
  • An old mixed native hedge — ecologically valuable and very recoverable.

The height point is the one that changes decisions

Under permitted development a boundary fence is generally limited to two metres — one metre where it fronts a highway. So if the hedge is screening at three or four metres, a fence will not replace what it is doing.

That is worth establishing before deciding, because it frequently reverses the answer. Removing a four-metre hedge and putting up a two-metre fence is not a like-for-like swap, and the difference becomes apparent the first summer.

The middle option

Frequently overlooked: reduce the hedge to a maintainable height rather than removing it. A hedge brought back below the point where a platform is needed costs substantially less to cut, and it becomes a job you could do yourself if you wanted to.

The choice is not only "keep this hedge as it is" or "lose it". A smaller hedge is a different commitment from a large one.

If you replace it

ReplacementScreening restoredLong-term
FenceImmediatelyLimited to about 2m; 15–20 year life
Laurel3–5 yearsFast, dense, forgiving of hard cutting
Beech or hornbeam5–8 yearsFar more manageable
Yew8–15 yearsThe best formal hedge there is
Another conifer3–5 yearsSame problem in twenty years
Fence plus climbersImmediate, then softensGood compromise

One check before anything comes out

A hedge cannot carry a Tree Preservation Order, but a tree grown up within one can — and older boundaries frequently have ash, holly or field maple seeded into them. In Stratford's conservation area a tree in a hedge needs six weeks' written notice to Stratford-on-Avon District Council above 75mm stem diameter measured 1.5m up, and a TPO tree needs written consent at any size.

It is one free phone call, and much better made before the machinery arrives than after.

Not sure whether to keep it?

Tell us what the hedge is and what it costs you to maintain. We'll give you an honest view of both options.

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