Trimming is the routine job: this year's growth off, hedge back where it was. It is the cheapest thing you can do to a hedge and the thing that keeps every other cost down — provided it is actually trimming that your hedge needs.

Is it trimming you need?

If this is trueYou need
Cut within the last year or twoTrimming
Right size, just shaggyTrimming
Old cutting line still visible insideTrimming
Crept into a border or over a pathReduction
Beyond reach from a step ladderReduction
Wider at the top than the bottomReduction
Not properly cut in four or five yearsReduction
The test is whether you can find the old cutting line inside the hedge — a change in stem thickness, or a shelf of older growth sitting inside the newer growth. While you can find it, a trim back to it will hold. Once it has disappeared, there is nothing to trim back to, and the job is a reduction.

What a good trim involves

Three things separate a hedge that has been finished from one that has been tidied, and none of them are about the machine.

  • A true top line, worked to a line rather than judged by eye. On any run over a few metres the difference is obvious — an eye-judged top dips and rises in a way you notice without being able to say why.
  • A batter on the faces — slightly wider at the base than the top. Partly appearance, mostly horticulture: it keeps light on the base so the bottom stays green rather than going bare and leggy.
  • Square ends. Where a hedge stops it should stop deliberately, not fade out.

The width, and why it matters more than people think

A trim that takes the top and leaves the faces is not really maintenance. Each year the hedge gains a few inches on each side, and because the top keeps being cut the hedge also becomes progressively top-heavy — which shades its own base and starts it going bare underneath.

Two problems from one omission: the hedge gets wider, and the bottom starts dying. Both are avoided by cutting the faces every time.

Frequency by species

HedgeCuts per yearBest timing
Leylandii & conifersOne, minimumLate summer
PrivetTwo or threeSpring through summer
Beech & hornbeamOneLate summer
YewOne, two if formalLate summer
LaurelOne or twoSpring and late summer
Hawthorn & mixed nativeOneLate summer to winter
BoxTwoLate spring and late summer

Laurel is worth a note

Common in Stratford gardens and frequently cut wrong. Laurel has large leaves, and shearing it with a powered trimmer cuts through those leaves, leaving cut halves that brown off at the edges and look poor for weeks.

Where appearance matters, laurel is better cut with secateurs — taking whole shoots out rather than shearing across the leaves. It takes longer and costs more, and on a prominent hedge it is worth it. On a back boundary nobody looks at, shearing is fine.

Timing

Late summer into early autumn suits most hedges. The main flush of growth is over, so the cut holds its shape through winter. A formal hedge kept sharp usually wants a second, lighter pass earlier in the year.

On nesting birds: it is not an offence to cut a hedge during the season. The offence under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 is intentionally damaging or destroying a nest while it is in use or being built. The hedge is checked before starting and any occupied section waits.

The 1 March to 31 August ban quoted at householders comes from the Management of Hedgerows (England) Regulations 2024, which apply to agricultural land and expressly exclude hedges within the curtilage of a dwelling house.

Want your hedges cut properly?

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